SAND: Segment 3 – Richtersveld

When to go

• The best time to go is winter: June to August.
• In summer, and even shoulder seasons, temperatures soar into the mid 40s (Celcius). When it’s that hot, there’s no escaping it. It’s not advised to attempt this segment any time outside of winter.

Logistics

• The segment starts in Springbok. It’s a regional hub and the last major town for at least the next 1,000 kilometres of the SAND route. It has plenty of accommodation options and multiple daily buses to and from other major centres such as Cape Town and Windhoek.
• It ends at the Sendelingsdrift border post, a small border station located at the far end of the Richtersveld National Park, doubling as the park’s office. There’s a small convenience store there, plus a camp site and staff housing, but nothing else, really, and no real transportation options either, apart from possibly getting a ride with other park visitors. Practically speaking, Sendelingsdrift is thus only a useful endpoint for riders intending to continue further north on the SAND route and into Namibia. With that said, the national park, and Sendelingsdrif by implication, is an essential component of this segment and one of the standout highlights of the whole SAND bikepacking route.
• Riders who wish to do the segment as a standalone segment should not feel discouraged or dismayed by the remoteness of this end point. In the Trail Notes, we offer recommendations and alternative endpoints to make it more suitable as a segment on its own. But all of the recommended options still include a visit to the park.

Park fees and permits

Permits are required for the following parks and nature reserves:

• Richtersveld National Park: Permits are issued at the Sendelingsdrif park office.
• The Namaqua 4×4 Eco Trail: This is a bit of a grey area. Technically, there is a fee for using the trail, but this route only takes in short sections of it. Moreover, it being a 4WD trail, cyclists are not technically considered trail users. Indeed, cycling is a very uncommon sight in these parts. As things stand, you may be requested to pay a fee at Klein Pella, but most likely not. For reference, I was not requested to pay on either of the two occasions I passed through there (two years apart).
• The Richtersveld Community Conservancy (UNESCO Site): The Richtersveld Nature Reserve consists of two parts: the national park and the community conservancy, which is also the UNESCO site. For the park section (see above), entry permits are compulsory, but the community conservancy portion is another grey area. There is supposed to be a fee for using conservancy facilities such as campsites. However, at the time of visiting, most campsites were unmanned and in a state of neglect. We treated these sites as wild camping sites and encountered several other visitors who did the same.

Private Land and Access

• The roads on this segment are all publicly accessible. No special permission is needed apart from the permits mentioned above. In fact, much of the segment is on community land where movement is not monitored or restricted in any way.
• Farm Gates: Where the route passes through working farms and private property, it does so on publicly accessible servitude roads. All gates on such roads are supposed to be kept unlocked. If you do encounter a locked gate, try to get permission before continuing. Please report locked gates to us. As usual, close all gates that were found closed and leave open those that were found open.
• Riding direction: This segment can be done in any direction. However, logistically, it would be better to do it from south to north (Springbok to border). This is because Springbok has excellent resupply facilities, whereas further along the route, food choice is limited.

Dangers and Animals

• Safety: Crime is notorious throughout South Africa, but if there’s one place in the country that is as good as crime-free, it’s the Richtersveld. With that said, aways still keep a close eye on your valuables when entering towns.
• Baboons inhabit the region’s mountains and “koppies.” Encounters with Baboons are quite common and usually without incident. However, they are territorial and dangerous and should not be toyed with or fed. I’ve personally had my most harrowing encounters with baboons in the Richtersveld.
• There are several species of venomous snakes throughout the region. The most notable ones to look out for are the Black Spitting Cobra and the Puffadder.
• Wear closed footwear at night. And if sleeping outside, check your sleeping bag for scorpions. Scorpions are common in Richtersveld; some of them are very venomous.

Annoyances

• The number one annoyance is midges, or ‘miggies,” especially in the vicinity of the Orange River. A face net could come in handy, but a buff and sunglasses is also fine.
• Parts of the route are also extremely dusty. Carry enough chain lube and a rag for cleaning.
• Thorn trees thrive alongside the river. Make sure to have plenty of sealant in your wheels!

Travel basics

• Language: The prevailing language spoken in these parts is Afrikaans, albeit in a distinct local dialect. English is not as widespread as elsewhere in the country, but most people know some basics, and someone with good command of the language can usually be found.
• In the small town of Koeboes, you may hear people speaking in the Nama language. It’s one of the last remaining places in South Africa where the language is still spoken, but even here, Afrikaans has become more prevalent.
• Lay of the Land: The Richtersveld region is technically still in Namaqualand, the ancestral home of the Nama people. The Nama people are the largest remaining ethnic group descending from the Khoekhoe people, Southern Africa’s earliest pastoralist tribe. Nama people still occupy large areas of land in desertous Southern Africa, including Namaqualand, although here, for the most part, people are of mixed ethnicity. Accordingly, the Nama language, or Khoekoegowab, has sadly been all but lost to the region. With that said, traces of the language still persist throughout the area, from place names to regional colloquial terms used in everyday speech. Further north, in Namibia, the Nama language, in its original form, is more widely spoken.
• Money: Cards (Visa or Mastercard) are widely accepted for payment, but some small stores may prefer cash payments, especially during power cuts. Card payment is accepted at the Richtersveld park office.
• Cellphone: Generally, there’s little to no connectivity outside of larger towns. There is wifi at Klein Pella and at most campsites in Vioolsdrift, but nowhere else.
• Most South Africans use Whatsapp for messaging and calls. The country code is +27.
• Vodacom generally has the best network coverage in these parts.

Bike Info

• What Bike? A capable ATB or MTB with wide, tubeless tyres. The wider, the better.
• It is possible to get through the segment on something racier, but you’ll have to skip some of the burlier sections. Refer to the Trail Notes for suggestions.
• Bike Shops: The region’s one and only bike shop is in Springbok, run by “Piet Fiets,” as the owner is locally known. It’s a basic shop catering mostly for 26ers and V-brakes, but if you’re lucky, you can find some more sophisticated parts there. But don’t count on it.

• With the exception of one or two possible guest houses (Klein Pella and Vioolsdrif), this segment mostly demands camping, especially wild camping.
• A tent is recommended to protect against insects and crawlers, more than anything else.

Water

Water management is critical in this segment. Here are some guidelines:

• Recommended carrying capacity: Minimum 6-8 litres.
• Critical refill opportunities are indicated on the GPX.
• Fill up at every opportunity.
• Farms are few and far between and cannot be relied on for water.
• Water can be taken from the Orange River, but it needs to be treated/filtered. Moreover, the river is hard to access most times, even when it appears temptingly close. Prominent river access spots are shown on the GPX.
• The region’s ground water has a strong mineral taste, often salty. It’s recommended to carry some juice powder to improve the taste.
• Stop cars if needed. Most drivers carry a bottle or two and will be happy to help. With that said, on some sections, you could go days without seeing a car.

Food

• All critical food resupply options are indicated on the GPX.
• Most towns and villages have at least one little convenience store.
• Take note that most of the shops in the region are closed on Sundays. They also close early on most Saturdays. Plan accordingly.

Local Food

Local meals are mostly a simple affair consisting of some sort of gravy and rice. In fact, with its exceptionally small population, the region really lacks any distinct local cuisine. However, with some luck, the usual specialities of the greater Namaqualand can still be found:

• “Biltong,” (dried meat strips) and “Droewors” (dried “boerewors” sausages)
• “Roosterkoek,” a bread roll cooked on an open fire and typically filled with apricot jam and cheese.
• “Braai” is a famous South African style barbeque.

The segment can be split roughly into three parts: Boesmanland, the river, and the Richtersveld.

Boesmanland: Springbok to Pella

A gravel road begins just outside Springbok, connecting to Goodhouse on the banks of the Orange River, before winding its way eastward to Pella. It’s the main road serving several small river settlements, yet it’s terribly corrugated and sees very little traffic.

The segment starts on this gravel road and continues north for some 60 kilometres before turning off onto smaller desert tracks that head directly into barren expanses of desert to the east. The next 70 or so kilometers are on mostly sandy doubletracks where the going is slow. It’s very remote, extremely barren, and water is scarce. The reward is incredible scenery with vast orange planes and contrasting black koppies.

A note regarding the name, Boesmanland. Boesmanland means bushman land. The term bushman is sometimes considered a derogatory term in South African context, but it still persists in place names throughout the country. I ascertained from various sources that there are no other alternative recognised names for this particular region. Boesmandland, it seems, is widely accepted and embraced locally. However, it’s important to approach its usage with caution and awareness of its potential to be offensive.

The River: Pella to Vioolsdrift

After crossing through Boesmanland, you arrive back on the Goodhouse-Pella road. From here, the route does a short out-and-back into a circuit that connects Pella, Klein Pella, and the river. We refer to it here as the Pella Loop. It includes a lovely bit of riding with incredible river scenery and much-needed food and water stops at Pella and Klein Pella. The loop is best done in a clockwise direction, descending to Klein Pella first. This ensures quicker access to water and an easy descent through the worst of the sand. After completing the loop, you return again, but for the last time, on the Goodhouse-Pella gravel road, this time heading west towards where the Eco Trail splits off again.

Much of this section, including the Pella Loop, coincides with the Namakwa 4×4 Eco Trail, an established 4×4 route that stretches between Pella and Alexander Bay.

The stretch that follows is probably the meat of the segment, a combination of rough and sandy doubletracks—sometimes, no tracks at all—that more or less follows the river all the way to Vioolsdrif. You’ll pass two small towns (Witbank and Goodhouse) where you can get food and water, but for the most part, the riding is very remote. The scenery here is truly breathtaking.

There is one particularly challenging section to be aware of: the linkup between the Kamgab 4×4 trail and the Road to Hell Pass. These are two distinct 4×4 trails on separate tributaries of the Orange River. For 4x4ers they’re typically out-and-back trails, but with bicycles and some hike-a-biking, it’s possible to link the two. Don’t take this challenge lightly. It’s a brutally tough trail in an extremely remote area. There’s no possibility of bailing out if things go south. Go in extra-well prepared. The reward is experiencing some of the most surreal desert scenery imaginable and the satisfaction of achieving something that truly can only be accomplished with a bicycle.

It is possible to skip this link-up if you prefer. In this case, follow the normal Eco Trail route further inland (as per the alternative GPX supplied below). However, be aware that even the easier alternative still crosses remote and sandy terrain and should not be taken lightly either.

Finally, the last 30 kilometres to Vioolsfrif join up with the N7 highway. By this time, you will have spent multiple days in the wild and will probably welcome the sight of the highway. It’s a quick dash downhill on the N7 to Vioolsdrif, where cold drinks and vibey river camps await. Enjoy!

Richtersveld: Vioolsdrif to Sendelingsdrif (Namibia border)

The jewel of this segment, and, arguably, the whole South African leg of the SAND route, is the Richtersveld. It’s where the best desert scenery meets excellent tracks and dreamy camp spots.

Richtersveld roads are a mix of doubletracks and chunky gravel roads, but unlike the river section before, they’re mostly rideable and indeed a joy to ride on.

There’s a logical, linear route from Vioolsdrif to the entrance of the Richtersveld National Park, but once you’re in the park, the idea is to explore at free will and to your heart’s content. The park charges quite a hefty permit fee for foreigners (close to R500 pppd at the time of writing) which needs to be paid in advance in addition to camping fees. Therefore, how long you can stay and how much you can explore inside the park depend on your budget and food-carrying capacity.

On the GPX, we’ve mapped out a circuit within the park that showcases the top viewpoints and camps. It’s estimated to take around four days to complete. However, many other combinations and alternatives exist to consider when exploring here.

The park’s entrance is at the Helskoof gate, but, inconveniently, permits must be bought at the far end of the park at the Sendelingsdrif office before you can really venture off to explore further. If you plan to continue to Namibia, the Sendelingsdrif office is also where you’ll end this segment. Therefore, whatever exploring you do inside the park will have to be an out-and-back or a loop to and from the Sendelingsdrif office. Don’t let this deter you from going in. It is well worth it, any day!

Route Alternatives and Variations

Segment 3 Lite: Many of the segment’s most formidable challenges fall within the Boesmanland and River sections. Less experienced bikepackers can side-step these parts by following this easier alternative route instead. Unfortunately, it misses out on some of the best terrain, but it still carries the overall feel of the segment, just with less adventure.

Add some spice to the Richtersveld section: Instead of taking the main Helskloof pass road at the start of the Richtersveld section, there’s an alternative, more challenging detour that can be taken.

Alternative endings: If you want to complete this segment as a standalone segment from south to north but don’t want to end at Sendelingsdrift, in need of transportation back to Springbok (there are no formal transportation services operating from Sendelingsdrift), consider one of these options:

1. Cross the border to Namibia and take the paved MR118 to Oranjemund, cross back into South Africa, and arrange transportation from Alexander Bay. However, even from Alexander Bay, a much larger town than Sendelingsdrif, transportation is not guaranteed.
2. Cross the border to Namibia and travel east along the river (scenic!) to reach the Vioolsdrift border. Cross back into South Africa, from where it should be relatively straightforward to get a ride back to Springbok.

Additional Resources

• The government’s official 1 in 50,000 topographic maps are an excellent source for navigation. They show detailed contours, streams, rivers, cadastral information, and even individual structures, including wind pumps and farm buildings. These maps are free to download and view using the Avenza Maps app.
• Official website of the Richtersveld National Park, including up to date rates and fees: sanparks.org
• Further reading and information about the Richtersveld World Heritage site: richtersveldwhs.org
• A list of the common snakes of Namaqualand, including emergency contact numbers (PDF)