Excursiones en Etla, Mexico

• For the full Need to Know details on Oaxaca, be sure to visit the San José del Pacífico Grand Dirt Tour.
• Best bike: You can ride this weekend tour on any mountain bike, be it rigid or with front suspension. However, take note of the more technical trail leading down towards La Viguera (easily avoided by staying on the Libramento Norte). The route is almost completely rideable, bar the odd dismount and push, though consider staying on dirt roads rather than taking trails if you’re on a gravel bike. See the map for details.
• Best time of year: Oaxaca is a great destination throughout the year. But bear in mind that during the dry season (November to April/May), dirt roads become increasingly dusty and temperatures soar – especially as you descend in elevation. The landscape also becomes increasingly dull and brown. In contrast, the rainy season (May to October) brings lush countryside and more bearable midday riding temperatures, but expect heavy later afternoon or nightly downpours. Thankfully, rain in the mountains of Oaxaca is rarely an all-day affair, unless there’s a storm system lingering on the Pacific coast or the Gulf of Mexico, in which case it can be rainy and overcast for a few days. Mid-October through December are probably the best times to ride here, as the landscape is still green, the heaviest rains have passed, and the temperatures aren’t yet oppressive – within these months, November is perhaps ideal. Early in the year is good too, though I’m personally a fan of the rainy season and the drama of its skies.
• Bike shops: Bicimundo and Zona Bici are well stocked and both have shops in Reforma, which are recommended over their branches in the city centre. Expect to find sealant, modern drivetrain components, and a reasonable selection of mountain bike tyres, right up to 29 x 2.5/2.6″ sizes.
• Bike rentals: Aside from the full-suspension bikes provided by tour companies for their enduro tours, Bicicletas Pedro Martinez is probably the best place to rent a bike suitable for dirt road riding here. A decent Orbea hardtail costs 500 pesos ($24 USD) for 24 hours. Otherwise, pop by Bicibella Oaxaca, below Coyote tours. They may be able to set you up with something too.
• La Mesita: It’s well worth climbing up to La Mesita, a small eco centre run buy the San Pablo community. There, you can refill your water, enjoy a far-reaching view across the Etla Valley, and wander around the outdoor art installations from local artists. It’s 40 pesos to enter, which allows access to the trail system too, both hiking and riding, and it’s a further 40 pesos to visit the butterfly sanctuary.  La Mesita is open every day and is a popular destination for local cyclists.
• Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA)Housed in a former textile factory from 1883, this art centre is a reason to visit San Agustín Etla. There are three main areas with exhibits, along with the structure itself, which has been beautifully restored, a fine balance of leaving original machinery exposed – there’s even cotton and wool still on the original spools – along with views from the terraces. Bikes can be left safely outside. It’s free to enter, though you can make a donation. The art centre opens at 11am every day and closes at 5pm.
• Arte Papel Vista Hermosa:

Housed in a former hydroelectric plant with high ceilings and scorpion tiles on its floors, the space offers wonderful demonstrations on how paper is made, using vast ladels, great presses, and locally sourced plants and minerals – including maguey, carrizo, and corn husks. Free entry, though you can make a donation.

• La Planta: An optional out and back from town (with a connecting trail too), La Planta is an abandoned hydroelectric plant that is now reclaimed by nature. It’s curated by the Alfredo Harp Helú Foundation, there’s a connecting trail, and the aqueduct continues to bring from the mountains into continues into town. Check first to make sure it’s open – you may need to register at the municipal office to be allowed entry to this area.
• Aguamiel: Although this remarkable outdoor restaurant isn’t open every day, it’s worth planning your trip for the weekend just to spend a couple of hours and drinking eating here. It’s that good! Find more details in the Food and Water tab.
• The archaeological site of El Mogote, a Zapotec centre, can be visited any day as there’s no entrance fee. Walk up the steps and see the enormous organ pipe cactus growing at the top.
• Santa María Atzompa: One a satellite settlement to Monte Alban, this town is well known for its pottery made in wood-fired pottery kilns. There are both unglazed pieces and various natural and multicoloured glazes, just note that the traditional green finish uses a lead monoxide glaze, so shouldn’t be used for cooking. We’ve marked a few workshops that caught our eye, but there are plenty more to visit. Note that opening hours may be limited on a Sunday, if you’re planning to coincide the ride with Sunday lunch at Aguamiel.
• There are many other sites to see in the city that pair well with this ride, including the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca and the Museo Textil de Oaxaca – the latter is run by the Alfredo Harp Helú Foundation, like La Planta.
• Family riding: This route makes a great family ride; see Excursions with Sage.
• Flights: Volaris, AeroMexico, and a number of other airlines fly to Oaxaca via Mexico City or Guadalajara. Airlines invariably have different bike policies – cost/size/weight – so always check ahead. I like to travel with a compact bicycle bag –  like the Tardis from Ground Effect – as it fits into smaller taxis and is easier to store in a hotel or hostel.
• Airport taxis: Depending on the size of your bike boxes, it’s likely to cost between 350 and 500 pesos ($16 to $24 USD) for a taxi from the airport into town – for 2 to 3 people with bikes.  You can buy tickets for the official airport taxis when you arrive (just by the exit) and it’s all regulated. If you have a small bike bag, you can likely fit it into the colectivo. For your return, download the Didi App on your phone (pay the driver directly), or arrange a shuttle through your hotel.
• Covid-19 tests: Tests suitable for air travel to the US are available at Farmacias Ahorro , a national chain of pharmacies.  You’ll need to book in advance (sometimes at least a day) but results are almost immediate. The cost is approximately 500 pesos ($24 USD). Find the closest to where you are staying, book online (laptops work better than phones), and don’t forget to bring your ID. There are other more immediate (but expensive) clinics in town too, that may well be better suited to larger groups. Your accommodation will also be able to advise.
• Mask wearing: Be sure to wear your mask both indoors and outdoors in Oaxaca city, as per the state mandate. Expect to have your temperature checked and to be required to clean your hands with sanitiser when entering certain establishments and markets. Be especially sensitive to Covid-19 restrictions and requirements in smaller communities. Be sure to check in on Mexico’s Covid-19 Epidemiological Traffic Light Map before embarking on this tour.

• There’s a great spot to camp in San Agustín Elta called El Rincón de San Agustín. It’s 200 pesos ($10 USD) to camp per person, which includes internet and a hot shower. The bathrooms/shower/sinks are spotlessly clean. Being on the edge of town, expect barking dogs and an early morning rooster, so earplugs and perhaps a face mask for light sleepers are advised.
• The same spot has clean, basic double rooms for around $30, if you prefer to travel extra light. There are other options in town.
• Camping is also available on the grounds of La Mesita for 100 pesos ($4.80 USD) per person. There’s a bathroom and water.

• Water is available from the spigot in La Mesita. Although it’s mountain water, it might be worth purifying it to be on the safe side.
• Elsewhere, expect to find plenty of food and water along the route, thanks to a number of small restaurants in La Viguera, San Agustín Etla, and many small settlements in between. Some are marked on the map.
• Cervecería La Cura is a brewery in San Agustin Etla serving a number of craft beers – the one infused with mezcal comes recommended – and good pizza too.
• If you time your trip with the weekend, the amazing Aguamiel offers drinks of all kinds, including mezcal, local aguas, and fermented beverages of various kinds on Saturdays. They also serve an excellent lunch using seasonal ingredients from 11 a.m. onwards on Sunday, though this needs to be booked in advance. Contact them through Instagram. If you’re looking to treat yourself in Oaxaca, this is the place! Being outside, the restaurant is closed in the rainy season.
• Before returning to Oaxaca, be sure to stop off for a tepache or an agua de coco at the stand along the railway tracks – see map for location.
• For lots of food and drink recommendations in the city, see this link!

While this route can be covered in a day, distance-wise, the time taken to various visit sites along the way – such as the excellent San Agustín Etla Art Centre – makes it well worth splitting into two. As a suggested itinerary, consider visiting the Ethnobotanical Garden or the Textile Museum in town before setting out, then enjoying an afternoon ride into the Etla Valley. Or if it’s the height of the dry season, leave early and spend some extra time in the cooler climes of La Mesita, riding the local trail above San Pablo Etla.

Note that the Cieneguilla Ecotorismo Para Todos is currently closed; when it’s open again, consider climbing up via a dirt road and dropping down on trails to San Agustín Etla as an extra bonus loop. See Trailforks for details.

• Resources: MTB Oaxaca is an excellent website that lists bike shops, trails, and day rides in and around Oaxaca. Thank you Larry for the company and sharing your knowledge of the area!