San Jose del Pacifico Grand Dirt Tour, Oaxaca

• Best bike: A rigid mountain bike or hardtail with a 2.3″ to 2.6″ tyre is the best steed for this route, due to the mixed terrain, the extended climbs, and the often steep grades. Still, because there’s nothing ‘technical’ along the way in terms of terrain, a traditional tourer works well too. If you’re aboard a gravel or drop handlebar bike, gearing similar to that of a mountain bike is most appropriate. Fit the widest tyres that you can and expect to be jostled around at times. Whatever bike you choose, pack light, as there’s a lot of climbing to contend with. Find more in the Bikes, Rides, and Gear section of our extensive Oaxaca Bikepacking Routes Network Guide.
• Direction: We’ve routed the loop in an anti-clockwise direction, as it offers a more mellow introduction to dirt road riding in Mexico, finishing up with an easy-going cruise through the culture-rich Mitla Valley, with a detour to Teotitlan del Valle for a chance to purchase one of its naturally dyed, handmade rugs. However, the route also works really well in reverse. Ridden clockwise, it throws riders straight into the more adventurous half of the route, with a more gentle exit through rural countryside to round it off. Riding it clockwise also avoids the knee-popping climb into San Jose del Pacífico. There are a few minor alternates marked on the map for those riding in a clockwise direction and note the possibility of one-way roads in towns when following the gpx file.
• Please see the notes at the top of this page for details on a reroute between Cieneguilla and San Agustín Mixtepec.
• Many of these dirt roads see little travel. A wave, a friendly greeting, and even some conversation go a long way within the small Zapotec communities, especially when crossing their land.
• For this reason, some Spanish language skills are highly recommended, as much of this route sees few foreign visitors.
• Best time of year: Oaxaca is a popular destination throughout the year, with November to February being the high season. Bear in mind that during the dry season (November to April/May), dirt roads become increasingly dusty, streams can run dry, and temperatures soar as the months go by – especially as you descend in elevation. By April, it’s sizzling hot and the landscape also becomes increasingly dull and brown. In contrast, the rainy season (mid-May to October) brings lush countryside and more bearable midday riding temperatures, but expect heavy later afternoon or nightly downpours. Thankfully, rain in the mountains of Oaxaca is rarely an all-day affair, unless there’s a storm system lingering on the Pacific coast or the Gulf of Mexico, in which case it can be rainy and overcast for a few days. Mid October through January are probably the best times to ride here, as the landscape is still green, the heaviest rains have passed, and the temperatures aren’t yet oppressive – within these months, November is perhaps the best. You could even tie in a trip with Día de Muertos, though book accommodation in advance as everywhere is especially busy.
• Speaking of the rainy season, it can be worth bringing a light piece of tarp to protect your bike’s chain from rusting at night. There’s are waypoints on the map for a couple of potential mud-clay trouble spots, though on the whole, the area drains well. Storm systems aside, rains mostly come in the late afternoon or at night, so don’t tend to get in the way of enjoying your days in the saddle. The rainy season has its own charms, including epic skies, storm-racing, and the chance to forage for mushrooms. Mushrooms are most plentiful from July to September, though the season does extend into October and even November too. Check out Oaxacan mushroom guru Osvaldo Sandoval’s Instagram for ideas and inspiration.
• Speaking of the dry season, be prepared for extremely high daytime temperatures (35c/95f) in the valleys and balmy nights. Humidity also increases towards the coast. You’ll need to get early starts, take mid-day siestas, and carry extra water.
• Looking for dialed packing information? Check out our notes on gear and packing in our Bikepacking Routes Network guide. Also, this one works for me.
• Difficulty: This route is characterized by significant and sometimes steep climbing. Road surfaces are mixed but the terrain is never technical. Food and water are plentiful. Tackled in a clockwise direction, there’s one sizeable bike-push to note – the stint up towards San Jose del Pacifico, as marked on the map – which can take about half an hour of hard graft. If you’re coming from a coastal region, be aware that the ride hits up to 3000m in elevation. Be prepared for high temperates when climbing out of Santa Maria Zoquitlan, especially in the dry season. Be sure to hydrate and time your riding accordingly to avoid midday highs. Whilst it may be tempting to crunch big days, this is also a rides that suits a more mellow pace, simply because there’s so much to see along the way, especially when heading out and back into the city.
• Safety: Generally speaking, the mountains of Oaxaca are a safe place to travel through, but it’s always worth seeking up-to-date information locally and taking extra care within the capital. While it doesn’t effect this route specifically, there have been increasing reports of robberies in Oaxaca de Juárez, both in the city centre at night and on a few of the local trails during the day. If you’re out late, take a taxi home. In terms of riding, hiking, and running in areas close to the city, be especially mindful in Cerro del Fortín, the cross at Torre de Microondas, and at the wall at very top of the Libramento Norte – before the road drops down in Viguera, as used by some of our bikepacking routes and day rides into the Etla Valley. Problem zones are marked on the map under Safety in Oaxaca here where you can find more details.
• Critters: There can be mosquitos, black flies, and occasionally poison ivy, so packing some Benadryl if you’re sensitive to any of these can be useful. We’ve spotted brown recluse spiders too, as well as rattlesnakes, so an enclosed tent is recommended.
• Dogs: Mexico is overrun with street dogs so you can expect to find them loitering and lounging in the shade in Oaxacan towns and villages. Some of them are more vocal than others (bring ear plugs if you’re camping!), and others like nothing more than to take up chase! To fend them off, best practice is to either pretend to throw a rock or make a tzztzztzz sound. That’s what the locals do and it works well!
• Money matters: Aside from in Ocotlan, there are no ATMs en route, so bring enough cash to tide you through. Break 500 peso notes into small bills in one of Oaxaca’s banks beforehand, as small stores and restaurants will have trouble changing them.
• For general information about our extensive route network in Oaxaca, be sure to check out our Oaxaca Bikepacking Routes Network resource, with a Spanish translation coming soon. It includes details on getting there, bike shops, rentals, gear choices, food, arts and crafts, and worthwhile places to visit in the city and surrounding towns.

• Dispersed camping is possible along this route. I’ve marked a small selection of flat, unfenced areas on the map but with a keen eye there are plenty of others – especially in the more forested parts of the ride. Bear in mind that they are mostly unofficial spots, so be discreet and respectful, camp late and leave early, and above all be sure to leave no trace. If in doubt, ask for permission from the local ejido or village, as people are invariably very friendly and accommodating. Just note that if you end up camping in a populated area, bring your ear plugs to fend of a soundscape of fire crackers, barking dogs, and music … The Mexican countryside is rarely silent!
• Fuel: I use an alcohol stove and have marked up a hardware store on the map where you can can find alcohol industrial – next to La Michoacana on Calle de Frey Bartolomé de las Casas, which is near the Zocalo. It can be bought in bulk (56 pesos for 1.5L, ask for alcohol metilico). Elsewhere on the route, ask for alcohol puro or alcohol de quemar – be aware that it can be time-consuming to track down, so you’re likely better buying enough for the whole loop. Cleaning stores and pharmacies often stock more expensive alcohol etílico, make sure it’s a higher enough alcohol percentage, ideally 96% or so. Some burns better than others. You can also buy compressed camping gas bottles at La Gran Montaña. It’s on Miguel Hidalgo, close to Marito and Mogli Cafe, a hip little coffee shop that’s worth popping into if you need an afternoon pick-me-up.
• Most larger settlements will have lodging. In Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz, Hotel Diamante Plaza comes recommended.
• There are plenty of options to be found in touristy San José del Pacifico to suit all budgets. It lies before the halfway point of the route and is a great place to spend a mellow morning off the saddle, or even an extra day. Note that less touristy options can be found further up the hillsides from the main thoroughfare, and nearby San Mateo Río Hondo promises off-the-beaten-track alternatives too.
• Refugio Terraza de la Tierra. If you’re looking for something a little alternative, he beautiful Refugio Terraza de la Tierra offers rustic and well-priced cabins, a yoga hall, vegan fare, and some idyllic signed walks through the cloud forest. Those on a budget can camp in the organic vegetable gardens for 100 pesos per tent, though note that space is limited. It’s a short but steep descent to get down there… which means a sharp climb to get out. Food is available, though considering its location, bring your own too, especially if you have a big appetite. The grounds include a wonderful little trail to the Arbol de la Luna. The Refugio is great spot to spend a rest day, or a leisurely morning.
• Mitla side trip: To eek out your trip and visit the Mitla archeological site (and the excellent Tlacolula Sunday market, the day coincides), consider treating yourself to a night at the fantastic Casa Lyobaa ($85, 10 per cent discount for bikepackers paying cash). It comes complete with a beautiful cactus garden, a great breakfast, an excellent record collection, and a swimming pool! Otherwise, there’s plenty of more budget-minded accommodation to be found. This RWGPS track is a fun way of getting there, and will keep you off the highway the whole way.
• There’s a wide variety of accommodation available within Oaxaca City, from budget hostels to fancy digs. If you plan on setting up a base camp to explore the area in more detail, Air B&B can be a good option. Location-wise, it’s hard to go wrong anywhere near the centre of the city, with Barrio de Jalatlaco being an especially popular spot. A little further out is Barrio de Xochimilco – it’s the oldest part of Oaxaca and is also artistic, colourful, and crammed with coffee shops. Drop me a line if you are in town and want to meet up for an early morning ride!

• Even small settlements have simple tiendas – the major ones are marked on the map – so there’s no need to carry too much food at any one time.
• Many villages and towns have great local restaurants, offering have tlayudas, memelas, quesadillas, or tacos. In short, you won’t go hungry on this tour. We’ve marked a few favourites on the map. If you don’t want to bring your stove, bring a re-usable container for take-outs, like a Stasher bag or some stout zip lock bags.
• You’ll want to carry at least a few bottles of water with you. Depending on the season, I’d recommend having the capacity to run around 3-4L, as campsites will invariably be dry. When you stop in restaurants, ask to fill your bottles and offer a few extra pesos, to save buying plastic ones. Otherwise, you can refill all your bottles at the start of the day from a 20L, re-usable water jug (called a garrafon, approx 25-30 pesos) found in many local stores. This works out especially well if you’re 2 or more riders – although they’re larger than you’ll need,  they’re both an economical and eco-friendly way of filling up.
• Bring a filter for mountain streams, too. 
• In terms of regular markets, there’s the Sunday market in Tlacolula, the Monday market in Teotitlan, the Thursday market in Ejutla, and the Friday market in Ocotlan, amongst others. Find more about market days here.
• If you want to change things up in San Jose del Pacifico, check out Tatso, a fantastic Asian fusion restaurant, with lots of vegetarian and vegan options. 
• For more about Oaxacan food and drink, and restaurant recommendations in the city, see our detailed Comida Oaxaqueño: Oaxacan Food Guide!

Day Rides and Route Alternates

Dirt Road Day Rides

Indeed, the three main valleys that prod out of the city offer much more than just riding… though cycling is definitely the best way of discovering them! With this in mind, we’ve included five recommended day rides of differing lengths to bookend your trip. The first and second will introduce you to the archaeological site of Monte Albán, one of the most important cities in Mesoamerica – one is a day ride and the other just a couple of hours in the saddle. A third hurdles the Libramento Norte, leading riders out on quiet dirt roads to the acclaimed Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, returning via the Zona arqueológica de San José El Mogote and the old railway line. In case you didn’t stop in Teotitlán del Valle on your way through the Mitla valley, a fourth overlaps the route briefly, using the mostly mellow foothills trails that connect the city with Huayapam, a village known for its pre-hispanic energy drink, tejate. The fifth is one of my favourite half-day rides in the area. It strikes out to San Felipe Tejalapam on ridgetop dirt roads, offering a fresh perspective of the area. Find links below and see Trail Notes for additional details about these routes, or visit my accompanying blog for a roundup of these rides, and much more – Still Out Riding.

1. Monte Albán and Cuilapan Rural Ramble
2. Monte Albán and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts!
3. San Agustín Etla: foothills out, railroad back
4. Teotitlán del Valle, via Huilapam, Dainzú, and Tule
5. San Felipe Tejalapam Dirt Loop (v. Roughstuff)

In addition to the various bikepacking routes to be found in Oaxaca (linked above), bookend your trip with dirt, gravel, and singletrack loops, rewarding ways of gaining a deeper understanding and appreciation of the area.

The Monte Albán and Cuilapan Rural Ramble is a challenging, roughstuff day ride that passes by the Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán en route to the Ex-Monastry of Cuilapam – a complex set in Oaxaca’s Valle Grande and Ejutla area. You can trim it down to the single loop, but I recommend the full figure of eight, as it’s a wonderful showcase for Oaxaca’s traditional farming practises and inter-cropping – a combination of corn, squash, and beans to help fortify the soil and keep pests away.

For a much shorter version with some short sections of trail, there’s also Monte Alban and Atzompa Rough ‘n Ruts. It’s a good little loop to see Monte Alban and Atzompa (currently closed), and get back into town with plenty of time to spare. Just note some of the trail may need to be walked, depending on rider confidence and bike setup. Either way, I recommend checking out Monte Alban! It’s an incredible Zapotec site and a highlight of visiting Oaxaca City.

Venture into the Etla Valley and visit the acclaimed Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, housed in a former textile factory, by following San Agustín Etla: foothills out, railroad back day ride. It connects rolling dirt roads to San Agustín with a former railway line on the way back, making for a nice variety of surfaces. There are singletrack options too if you want to spice things up.

If you rode the route clockwise and didn’t get a chance to check out Teotitlan del Valle and its beautiful textiles, then the 75km Teotitlán, via Hualapam, Dainzú, and Tule is sure to add great memories to your purchase. It links up predominantly mellow trails, rural roads, and remote two-track, via the archeological site of Dainzu.

And for a fresh perspective of the area, this short loop is a great way of getting out for a few hours, connecting dirt roads out to San Felipe Tejalapam, leaving you time to wander the streets of Oaxaca after lunch. There are several permutations to this – here’s my favourite.

Lastly… the full route includes an interesting and ‘unorthodox’ way out of Oaxaca. For those who want to save time, here is a shorter version, that is considerably more direct. It does mean riding the highway for a stint, however.

With thanks to Larry at www.oaxacamtb.com sharing his vast wealth of dirt road routes near Oaxaca City, from which much of my own knowledge is based.

Half day ride in San José del Pacífico

Tempted to spend more time in the cloud forest? Here’s a pleasant little half-day loop to the nearby village of San Mateo del Hondo, just in case you need extra validation for spending a second night in San José del Pacífico…

• Larry’s extensive website, Oaxaca MTB.org, is a fantastic local resource
• I keep a blog, Still Out Riding, with more ideas of bikepacking nature. Click on Oaxaca Bikepacking Info, in the top left corner, for thoughts on bike setups, day rides, and useful logistical info.