A Weekend in Bangkok

The discomfort of a single AirPod lodged in my ear and the sound of a podcast still blaring wakes me. I must have fallen asleep somewhere between the districts of Kamphaeng Phet and Nakhon Pathom, but there’s no mistaking where I am now. I look out of the window as a blood-red sunrise peeks through the skyscrapers, and the train grinds to a halt. The green tropical jungle and cool mountain air of the north are long gone now; replaced by hot, humid air that clings to the ceiling and drips down the carriage walls. We’ve made it to Bangkok.

• 
• 

I grab my bike from the train’s bowels and exit the station. It’s hot and sweaty and sticky and chaotic. It’s quintessentially Bangkok. Commuters on folding bikes spew from the BTS subway station. Slick roadies dance through the wall-to-wall traffic, and early morning street food vendors fire up their woks. But I resist the pull of a cheeky morning tom yum soup and stay focussed on the mission at hand. I’m in Bangkok this weekend to meet and document three of the city’s prominent bikepacking brands—the people igniting the Thai bikepacking scene and the products they make and sell.

Buffalo Bags

The door to the cafe swings open, and I’m greeted by a wide smile and a warm “Sawadee Khrup.” It’s Buffalo Bags founder Chatchaphong Kamolsakpitak or Be for short. We’ve agreed to meet near his workshop before he gives me the grand workshop tour.

• 
• 

Launched in 2020 as a “happy accident,” Buffalo Bags has grown to become one of Thailand’s most recognised bikepacking brands, with customers all over the world. But according to Be, becoming a bag maker was never part of his plan. “In 2020, COVID hit Thailand hard, and everything shut down,” he tells me. “I had recently bought a new bikepacking rig and was looking for some bags to help carry my gear. But with the pandemic in full swing, bikepacking booming, and demand for bags at an all-time high, my choices were either to wait or to give this bag-making thing a shot.”

• 
• 
• 

Inspired by the classic Carradice-style saddlebag, Be set about creating his first prototype: an oversized monsterbag with a whopping 38-litre storage capacity, giant side pockets,and full canvas construction. “The bag was ugly and rough and not even finished,” he says as a wry smile creeps across his face. “But I took it on some bikepacking trips with friends, used it, abused it, and shared some photos on Instagram. Then, out of nowhere, people started messaging me, asking about the bag and if I could make one for them.”

Fuelled by the Insta-interest, Be decided to iterate on his original design, testing ideas with friends along the way until he eventually produced his now flagship model, the Big Buffalo, a tough, versatile, and capacious bag with a classic aesthetic, modern materials, and effortless style. At home on both the handlebars or the saddle (saddle loops necessary), the Big Buffalo is available in a range of three sizes: small (18L), medium (26L), and large (30L) and a variety of fabrics, including X-Pac (X51), Ecopack (EPX400), Cordura, and canvas.

• 
• 

Fast forward a few years, and Be has grown the Buffalo Bags brand, team, and production capabilities considerably. What started as a way to scratch his own itch has now developed into arguably the most recognised bikepacking brand in Thailand. Alongside his range of saddlebags, he’s also launched the Bar & Ale (a roll-top hip pack that doubles as a handlebar bag), the B66 (a commuting-inspired handlebar bag), the Buff Tank (a top tube bag), a bunch of accessories, and fun merch.

Having been lucky enough to explore the studios of various makers around the world now, I’m always struck by how closely their spaces mirror their personalities. And Be’s workspace embodies this phenomenon perfectly. It’s utilitarian, unpretentious, and functional. The space is bright and hot, and there are bags everywhere. The smell of burning incense floats through the room, and the aircon unit barely works. Great rolls of fabric lay slumped in the corner, as finished bags hang by their buckles in the windows. Be’s personal Mone El Continental rests on the back wall, perfectly positioned underneath the postcards, pot plants, and prototypes that never made it to production. The whole space reverberates with Be’s energy, and it’s a joy to share with him.

• 
• 

While I’m in the workshop, Be puts the final touches to a Bar & Ale hip pack in a very special fabric. Designed in collaboration with his friend Bombay Chakrist, the new fabric, dubbed “Ecoprint” involves tirelessly selecting, designing, pressing, and steaming a selection of Thai leaves onto fabric. The result is a totally one-off design that celebrates Thailand’s abundant nature and the traditional dyeing methods that have been used in communities here for hundreds of years.

For more on Buffalo Bags, visit their Instagram @buffalo.bags.

Bicycle Boys Clubhouse

It’s 3 p.m. now, and I’m running late for my next hangout. In a car, I’d be done for. But by bike, I easily slip through the traffic, shoot over the Chao Phraya River, dodge a few buses, and turn left onto Charoen Krung, the first road ever built in Thailand.

• 
• 

This is the home of Bicycle Boys Clubhouse (BBCH), a bike and coffee shop that specialises in eye-watering custom builds, high-end components, and imported global goodies. Launched in 2020 by Bangkok native Klong Pista, BBCH has grown to become Bangkok’s premiere bike shop. Amongst the vintage MTBs, fixies, and rat bikes, you’ll also find international brands such as Crust, Rivendell, Wilde, Paul Components, Stridsland, and Ultradynamico.

Klong’s vision for BBCH goes beyond simply peddling premium brands. He aims to challenge the stigma surrounding bicycles in Thailand. “Here in Bangkok, bikes are considered transport for the lower classes and people who simply can’t afford a car or motorbike,” he tells me, pouring out a coffee. “But we want to reshape that perception and inspire young Thais to ditch their scooters and embrace cycling not just as a mode of transport but as a lifestyle and cultural statement too.” The sentiment in his words washes over me. I can’t believe the wisdom Klong holds at just 24 years old. What a guy.

• 
• 
• 

Coffee and philosophy over, we venture upstairs to the engine room of BBCH. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the loft-like space in crisp, clean light. Framesets hang from the rafters, chromed-out components glisten on display, and the sound of reggae fills the air. Part workshop, part bike museum, the space is brimming with rare and vintage bikes from master builders like Rensho, Colnago, Tony Romingers, and DeRosa. plus the best from modern framebuilders, including MASH, No.22, Pista, Brooklyn, and Pelizzoli. There are so many great bikes to drool over that it’s hard to know where to look.

• 
• 

“We’re just about to finish two custom builds if you want to photograph them,” Klong says, clearly sensing my excitement. The first is an elegant Rivendell Joe Appaloosa, with Albatross bars, full fenders, and a polished kickstand. Its long wheelbase and refined, lugged construction are a perfect example of utilitarian beauty and blend with its Bangkok home perfectly. The second is a paint-splattered Crust Evasion with purple anodized components, chubby 2.1” rubber, and gloss black riser bars. It’s bold and loud and demands attention—a big BMX ready to be let loose on the streets of Thailand.

• 
• 

• 
• 
• 

The light is fading now, and my time at the clubhouse is coming to an end. BBCH is a special shop run by an inspiring group of people. Their mission is noble, and the bike culture they’re building in the city is something Bangkok desperately needs. The next time you’re in the area, be sure to stop by, buy some gear, grab a coffee, and support the team.

For more on Bicycle Boys Clubhouse, visit their Instagram @bicycleboys_clubhouse.

Conquer Bags

It’s 5 a.m. on Sunday morning, and after a restless night thanks to a hostel room full of merry drunkards, I’ve barely slept. Luckily for me, breakfast starts early here, and with the lingering memory of my favourite Grapow Moo Grop (crispy pork belly with holy basil) nearby, I pick up the strength to start the day early. Savouring the only time Bangkok is ever quiet, I begin my pedal towards the home of Thailand’s original bikepacking bag maker: Paul Jungwatchakul of Conquer Bags.

• 
• 

Weaving down the small canal roads as the blushing pink morning haze fills the sky, I pass the train station and arrive at the pin on my GPX. I look around. Is this the right place? I’m standing in front of a gate and a smiling security guard in Bangkok’s version of suburbia. I fire up Instagram and message Paul to let him know I’ve arrived.

Ten minutes pass. The security guard is still smiling. Then Paul arrives and escorts me inside. “Welcome to Conquer Bags HQ,” he says as he smiles widely, leading me inside and up the stairs to his workshop. A large cutting table dominates the room. Sewing machines line its edges, while various fabrics, buckles, clasps, and straps hang from every available inch of space. “It’s not a big workshop,” Paul says as he offers me a bowl of fruit, “But it’s got everything I need to produce all of the bags in the Conquer range.”

• 
• 

Launched in 2014, Paul’s journey into bag making began with a chance encounter during a solo bike trip in Northern Thailand. Two days into his 250-kilometre loop, he came across a rider from the United States with a full bikepacking bag set up. “I had never seen this style of bag before, and I was so impressed I offered to buy the guy lunch if I could inspect his bags in more detail,” he recounts, his eyes sparkling with the memory of that pivotal moment.

Buoyed by this experience, Paul’s brain was on fire for the rest of the trip. At camp, he researched bikepacking brands, sketched designs in his notebook, and daydreamed about what his own bags might look like. However, he quickly hit a snag when he realised he knew nothing about pattern making, bag design, or sewing. “I was overflowing with ideas, but with zero knowledge, I knew I couldn’t bring them to life,” he admits, his voice filled with a mix of humility and determination.

• 
• 

• 
• 
• 

Undeterred by his lack of skill, Paul decided to enroll in a series of night classes. He learnt the foundations of sewing, and with some help from his teachers, drew his own pattern and hand-stitched a framebag, marking the birth of Conquer Bags. As the months passed and his skills and determination grew, Paul invested in a second-hand sewing machine and embarked on a journey of trial and error to perfect his craft.

A decade later, Paul has sewn over 2,000 bags and is probably the most experienced bag maker in the city. He’s extended his range of bags to now include made-to-measure frame bags, a seatpack, stem bags, top tube bags, a randonneur-style saddlebag, and a handlebar cradle with a drybag and accessory pouch. His years of experience and solid reputation here in South East Asia have made him a staple maker in the Thai bikepacking community.

Looking to the future, Paul wants to continue to grow Conquer internationally. As well as his standard designs, he’s committed to providing custom bags in a range of colours, fabrics, and finishes to suit a range of customers and bikes. Everything is possible with Paul, so if you’re in the market for a new custom framebag or an entire bikepacking set up, make sure to get in touch.

For more on Conquer Bags, visit their Instagram @conquer_bikepacking.

I glance down at my watch. It’s 4:45, and my train leaves soon. I fire off my final frames, hug Paul goodbye, and jump back on my bike. On my way to the train station, I can’t help but reflect on the stories and moments shared with these three incredible makers, all with their own unique stories and way into the community. My mission this weekend was to shine a light on the Thai people making and supporting the bikepacking scene here in Thailand. For those heading to Chiang Mai to ride The Lanna Kingdom, or anywhere else in Thailand, it is worth putting aside a few days in Bangkok first, as it certainly has a lot to offer.

• 
• 

Further Reading

Make sure to dig into these related articles for more info...